IHistory has a habit of finding Kyiv. Sitting at the heart of Ukraine, it straddles the country's internal geographical and political divisions. Sat on a series of hills overlooking the Dnieper river, the green cliffs host monuments to the city and country’s bloody and complex past.
Now as before, Ukraine has become caught in the thickets of history. Is history destiny, or is it something to learn from and escape for a new future? This question, with many others, now has a bearing on all our futures as Ukraine fights for its survival.
Photographs below from May 2011.

Kyiv’s historic district of Podil and the Dnieper River, the east-west dividing line of Ukraine.

Fountains on Maidan, the central square of Kyiv.

Khreschatyk, one of the main thoroughfares of the city. 

Khreschatyk. On May 1, 1986, the Soviet leadership chose to continue with the Mayday parade, despite knowing that the radioactive cloud from the recent explosion at Chernobyl would collect in the valley in which the street sits.

Golden onion domes define the skyline of the Kyiv cliffs sat high over the Dnieper.

St. Michael's Monastery.

St Andrew's Church.

An angel over the entrance of St. Michael’s Monastery. Rebuilt in the early 2000s as a replica of the historic monastery dynamited on Stalin’s orders, it is a tangible symbol of Ukraine’s rebirth as a nation.

The Motherland statue at the memorial to the Great Patriotic War.

St Andrew's Descent, from the Old Town to Podil on the river.

St. Sophia’s cathedral dates to the 10th Century, when Kyivan Rus’ converted to Orthodox Christianity, two centuries before the founding of Moscow.

A side alleyway off St. Andrew’s Descent. Ukraine has struggled for centuries to see and assert itself as a nation, but since 1991 has been an independent republic. Its relations with its larger neighbour Russia have defined much of the era.

The heart of Kyiv sits on the Right Bank of the Dnieper River, high on cliffs, with views out over the surroundings from within woodland.

The Friendship Arch, a Soviet monument to the ties between Russia and Ukraine. In 2014 activists painted a crack at the top of the arch.

Statue of St Volodymyr, the first Orthodox Christian king of Rus, next to the Dnieper river.

Presidential administration building in central Kyiv. In 2011, Viktor Yanukovych was president of Ukraine, attempting to balance relations between Russia and Europe, whilst enriching himself and his family. He would later flee to Russia after the 2014 Euromaidan revolution.

The network of parks on the cliffs above the Dnieper river, connecting the Mariinsky Palace (home of Ukraine's president) with the Motherland monument, a Soviet-era statue commemorating the victory of the 'Great Patriotic War'. Ukraine suffered more than any other country in the world in WW2, and between 1932-1945 it was the most dangerous place to live on earth. The memory of WW2 has been used as powerful patriotic imagery by Russia in the 2010s.

At a memorial to the Holodomor, a deliberate famine created by Stalin's collectivisation policies that caused an estimate 3 million Ukrainian deaths in 1932-33. Ukraine considers the actions a genocide.

A padlock inscribed 'Hope' on a footbridge overlooking the Dnieper.

One of the defining moments in Ukraine’s 20th century history occurred on 26 April 1986, when after a series of mistakes, miscommunications and safety lapses, Reactor 4 at the Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant suffered a catastrophic meltdown that burnt through the reactor containment casing, causing an explosion that blasted radioactive material into the atmosphere and across the surrounding area.
The Soviet authorities bungled the response, through a combination of disbelief of what was happening, and a reluctance to admit failure to higher levels of the leadership. Evacuation of the nearby city of Pripyat only occurred two days later, and was announced as a temporary measure for a few days. Around three hundred and fifty thousand people were evacuated, many to newly constructed districts of nearby Kyiv such as Troieshchyna, badly-connected to jobs and facilities.
The fallout from Chernobyl was not just radioactive, it was political. The gap between propaganda and reality, as well as the visible human damage, was exposed to a society beginning to be allowed some freedom of expression. Environmental action was initially viewed as an acceptable form of civil society campaign in perestroika-era Soviet Union, and dissatisfaction with the response of the authorities spilt over into politics. Eventually, Chernobyl was one of the key factors in the collapse in support for the Soviet regime in Ukraine, and its eventual independence and the collapse of the USSR.
Today Ukraine continues to live with the legacy. Benefits for those affected by the events take up around 15% of the government’s annual budget. Other reactors at the power plant continued to produce electricity until 2000. It is now subject to a decommissioning process expected to last until 2035. The 30km exclusion zone surrounding the plant remains in place, and the radioactive levels of the area, situated upriver of Kyiv, is continually monitored.
Photographs below from May 2011, 25 years after the accident.

The Chernobyl nuclear power plant is 110km north of the centre of Kyiv, through the seemingly endless forests between the capital and the Belarussian border.

A telephone at the village of Chernobyl, the main access point to the 30km exclusion zone. On April 26, 1986, disbelief at what was occurring at the plant, and fear of reporting bad news upwards, led to confusion and miscommunication, delaying evacuation efforts.

Reactor #6 at the Chernobyl power plant. It was under construction at the time of the accident, and all work was abandoned. The site remains constantly monitored. Early in the Russian invasion of 2022, the whole area was captured by Russian forces, to international concern.

The city of Pripyat was built to house the employees of the plant. It lies a few kilometres from Reactor 4. Despite the danger, an evacuation was only ordered two days after the reactor meltdown and explosion, with the stated intention that it would only be for a few days. The city of 50,000 people has been abandoned ever since. 

View from inside the swimming pool towards the abandoned fairground.

Looting has removed most items of value. Other items have been placed to remind visitors of the horrors experienced.

A street on the edge of Pripyat. Over time the urban fabric has been swallowed up by nature and the forests around.

A visitor photographs Reactor 4. It is protected by the temporary ‘Sarcophagus’, a structure hurriedly put up in 1986 with a 5-year lifespan. 25 years later, it remained the only source of protection between the outside world and the tonnes of nuclear fuel that remains inside. In the mid 2010s a new, long-term shield was constructed, funded by the EU and other partners, to provide better containment.

In November 2013, President Victor Yanukovych, who had been returned to power after originally being rejected in the Orange Revolution, reversed a decision to pursue an association agreement with the European Union, and instead chose to pursue a trade and political agreement with Russia. This act sparked protests once again in Maidan. A series of protests, direct action, riots and demonstrations followed, collectively known as Euromaidan. Dozens of people were killed or injured over the following weeks by snipers firing from government buildings, something unprecedented in modern independent Ukraine’s history.
In February 2014, after further bloodshed, Victor Yanukovych fled Kyiv for Russia.
Euromaidan was a collective rejection of the cronyism and corruption endemic to Ukrainian public life from the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991. It sought a more open and more honest future through ties to Europe. The events are contested and interpreted differently by many.
Seeing the events as a western plot to install a puppet regime in Kyiv, acting against their interests, Moscow invaded Ukraine, using covert Russian forces to wrest Crimea and much of the eastern Donbas region from Kyiv’s control. Confused by actions on the ground, and perhaps complacent, western powers did little to react. The conflict has killed nearly 15,000 people and caused an internal refugee flow to the west. Despite mistakes by the Ukrainian government on the ground, and the involvement of deeply unpleasant far-right groups in the initial stages, the invasion created a strong national reaction, unifying Ukrainians as never before. The far right, who had been encouraged by Russia, never got a foothold in national politics.
Politics became tumultuous, with great change possible and a desperation by the electorate to reject the old corrupt elite. Civic society flourished, international co-operation and reform increased, and a new nation became defined.
In late 2019, President Volodymyr Zelenskiy was elected with over 70% of the vote. A Jewish Russian-speaker, and former actor and comedian, he embodied the desire for change and desire for a new future, carved out in the space between the West and Russia, but guaranteed by external democratic institutions such as the EU.
Photographs from October 2019.

A peaceful protest in the Maidan against implementation of the Minsk agreements by the Ukrainian government. Since 1991, Ukraine has had free elections, peaceful transfers of power, and rights to free assembly and protest. The political violence of 2013 and 2014 shocked the nation, galvanising protestors to stand firm and safeguard the country’s democratic future.

Evening rush-hour traffic clogs the square between St Sophia’s and St Michael’s.

Outside the Stalinist building of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs.

Construction work on new flats at Lybidska. Kyiv is one of the few Ukrainian cities to experience population growth in recent years, with thousands of refugees from the Russian invasion in the Donbas growing the city’s residents. Ukraine as a whole has lost around 20% of its population since 1991. The economy is 40% smaller in real terms.

History does not end, although in the West we have had the luxury of thinking it has. But a Ukraine finding its feet, and defining itself as a democratic nation on the borders of an increasingly authoritarian Russia has always been aware of what can happen.On February 24, 2022, 8 years to the day after Russia launched a ‘covert’ invasion of east Ukraine (that was only covert to those not there), Vladimir Putin returned in force to subjugate and destroy the Ukrainian state. Kyiv was an early target.

Kyiv’s skyline from the Left Bank of the Dnieper river. In the opening stages of the Russian invasion of 2022, missile strikes attacked the city in an attempt to topple the government quickly, a plan that failed.

A Metro station in central Kyiv. The first parts of Kyiv’s Metro were begun in 1954 under Stalin. During air raids in 2022, tens of thousands of people sheltered in the Metro system from Russian missiles and bombs, with trains repurposed to provide sleeping accommodation.

A former dockland northeast of the city centre. During the opening stages of Russia’s invasion, the Intelligence Services building in the distance was attacked with missiles, which missed their target.

A thermal power plant near the main railway station. Such civilian infrastructure has come under attack, leaving hundreds of thousands without heat in the middle of winter.

The ticket hall of Kyiv’s main railway station. Hundreds of thousands of women and children evacuated the city on trains heading westwards from this station, leaving their husbands, sons and brothers to defend the city.

A railway yard to the north of the city. Ukraine’s railways are one of the largest and busiest in Europe, and have performed a vital role in evacuating civilians and transporting military supplies during the invasion.

Brovarskyi Avenue in the east of the city, on the Left Bank. This road leads to the nearby town of Brovary, where Russian troops performed intense shelling to take territory, as part of an attempt to surround the city. Beyond Brovary, this road is the main route between Kyiv and Moscow.

Walkers in the woods leading down to the Dnieper river. Much of the city is surrounded by extensive forests, providing a natural defensive landscape.

Syrets railway station on the ring railway in the northwest of the city. Construction work in the background surrounds the location of the US Embassy in Ukraine. One writer has characterised the geopolitics of the invasion as a result of ‘a Russian leadership obsessed with Ukraine, and a US leadership that barely noticed it’. 

Buildings in central Kyiv, near the government district. Initial Russian operations appeared to attempt to force regime change through a special forces operation launched from Hostomel airfield to the north of the city. The airfield took much longer than expected to capture, allowing the city to set up defences.

A typical residential neighbourhood in Kyiv. The defining image of Russia’s invasion has been the shelling and destruction of such neighbourhoods across the country, places with no military or tactical value other than causing civilian suffering and terror.

Millions have already fled the country. The misery of cities like Mariupol are being watched across the world, but most closely by other cities in Ukraine. Is this punishment awaiting them?
Ukraine is once again caught in the thickets of history. Moscow believes history is destiny, and cannot be escaped. The West, distracted and disparate, did not pay attention until too late, assuming democratic norms, nationhood and institutions to be inevitable. 
One hundred years after the early Ukrainian republic, the Ukrainians themselves had defined a nation, and an ambition to be part of something bigger, guaranteeing their future right to choose their path. Caught in the thickets of history, it can only be hoped that this time round, history can be escaped.
Back to Top